Today, our spotlight is on Rolex as we pit last year’s Rolesor GMT-Master II against this year’s stainless steel iteration. With the introduction of the stainless steel model this year, anticipated by many watch aficionados, the stage is set for a showdown against its two-tone predecessor.
The previous year saw the debut of the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor editions, which received warm acclaim. In contrast, this year’s stainless steel rendition not only echoes the bezel color of its predecessor but also draws parallels with the GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN from 2007, standing apart from its current stainless steel GMT counterparts. The question remains: will it also win the hearts of enthusiasts? Let’s delve into this GMT-Master II clash.
Before we proceed, let’s reflect on last week’s match-up. In our previous installment, we witnessed the battle between the new METAS-certified Black Bay by Tudor and the current replica Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 at bestreplica. As Jorg pointed out, the new Tudor represents a contemporary approach to the Submariner lineage within the Black Bay collection. However, the results revealed a preference for the original, with the Submariner securing 59% of the votes, leaving the Black Bay with 41%. The comments section provided a diverse range of opinions, highlighting the ongoing debate over whether the Black Bay can truly surpass the original Submariner. It will be fascinating to observe how perceptions evolve once enthusiasts get a hands-on experience with the new Black Bay. Now, let’s turn to Thomas and Jorg for their insights into this week’s GMT-Master II clash.
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
Allow me to start by expressing my greater enthusiasm for Rolex’s innovations last year compared to this year. The releases of 2023, including the titanium Yacht-Master, the pair of fake Rolex GMT-Master IIs, and the 40mm Explorer, impressed me deeply. Moreover, the updated Daytona collection exhibited significant improvements over its predecessor. However, this year, The Crown’s offerings left me somewhat less enthralled. Apart from the new Day-Date 36 with a white dial and the stainless steel GMT-Master II, none of the other releases captured my imagination.
Yet, when it comes to choosing between last year’s Rolesor version and this year’s stainless steel GMT-Master II “Black and Gray,” the steel and yellow gold ref. 126713GRNR clearly emerges as my preferred choice. This week’s clash focuses on aesthetics, where visual appeal translates into a broader emotional connection, extending beyond mere colors and materials. Last year’s pair of GMT-Master II models tapped perfectly into a vintage sentimentality reminiscent of the pre-Cerachrom sports models, which is what sets them apart.
Vintage Appeal in a Modern Context
While many of the brand’s sports models have evolved into more polished and somewhat flashy versions of their predecessors, last year’s offerings provided a glimmer of hope for Rolex purists. As elaborated by Robert-Jan in his analysis of the two GMT-Master IIs, these watches embody a vintage vibe that harks back to the era of five-digit references. Defining the essence of this vibe is always a subjective task – you either feel it or you don’t. Nevertheless, for the sake of discussion, let’s attempt to dissect it.
The appeal begins with the combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, evoking memories of the 1970s and ’80s, the peak of two-tone elegance. Rolex set the standard for two-tone watches with several remarkable steel and gold models. Among my favorites are the Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 and its successor, the 16753, famously known as the “Root Beer.” I recently penned a passionate tribute to the “Clint Eastwood,” explaining why it holds a special place in my heart. In that context, last year’s Rolesor GMT-Master II captures similar sentiments.
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
The blend of materials is crucial to its appeal. For me, the magic lies specifically in steel and yellow gold, not in the steel and Eve rose gold variant. The latter lacks the classic connotations, making the “modern Root Beer” ref. 126711CHNR less compelling. Furthermore, the combination of gold and steel pairs impeccably with a Jubilee bracelet. This bracelet style complements mixed metals far better than an Oyster bracelet. A steel and yellow gold Jubilee exudes a distinctive charm that is hard to replicate in all-stainless steel configurations.
This aesthetic harmony extends to the bezel insert as well. As some may know, I have a soft spot for black and gold combinations, which lend the Cerachrom bezel insert a dynamic quality absent in the black and silver combination of the new stainless steel 126710GRNR. The gold indices and hands against the black dial create an undeniably stylish contrast. Central to this ensemble is the gold GMT hand, which blends seamlessly yet asserts its style. This is where my reservations begin with the new stainless steel model.
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The Choice Is Clear
Regarding the stainless steel 126710GRNR, its arrival was anticipated by many. I was genuinely curious to see Rolex’s approach. The decision to reference the 2007 ref. 116710LN, introducing subtle text and a colored GMT hand, was logical. However, my primary gripe lies with the green accents. Personally, I find the green and black combination less appealing. Coupled with the stainless steel exterior, it results in a rather lackluster execution of an otherwise exceptional watch. Additionally, it draws parallels with the initial GMT-Master II, which fail to evoke the same sentimentality I hold for the new iteration.
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR
In contrast, last year’s two-tone variant exudes greater excitement and resonates more deeply with the traditional clone Rolex aesthetic. As I mentioned, it’s challenging to rationalize an emotion tied to personal preferences. Nevertheless, my inclination leans strongly towards last year’s €17,350 Rolesor GMT-Master II with the black and gray bezel, despite its €6,000 premium over the stainless steel model. This difference reflects my preference for a watch that resonates with me, as opposed to settling for the current stainless steel counterparts. Thomas, I’m eager to hear your thoughts.
If one seeks that vintage allure, nothing beats the authentic experience. I would always opt for the delightful presence of the Jubilee bracelet from that era on a two-tone watch. Similarly, I would prefer an aluminum bezel insert and the superior proportions of its predecessor.
Ultimately, acquiring a well-preserved GMT-Master 16753 with a nipple dial would cost approximately €5,000 less than investing in a new 126713GRNR. This seems to be the optimal route for those chasing the vintage charm of Rolex. Moreover, those older models were built to withstand everyday wear and tear, demonstrating exceptional durability.
One of the aspects linking our discussions today is the black and gray bezel from https://justokgamers.com. Personally, I find the gray shade rather uninspiring – it almost resembles primer paint. I have a strong preference for all-black bezels, but here we are.
Conversely, if one values the precision and modern advancements of Rolex, the all-steel 126710GRNR emerges as the logical choice. Both the 126710GRNR and the 16753 offer distinct characteristics compared to the 126713GRNR. The latter attempts to straddle the line between vintage and contemporary styles, ultimately failing to fully embrace either.