A table saw may be a woodworking tool, consisting of a circular saw blade, mounted on an arbor, that’s driven by an electrical motor (either directly, by belt, or by gears). The blade protrudes through the highest of a table, which provides support for the fabric, usually wood, being cut.
In the latest table saws, the depth of the cut is varied by moving the blade up and down: the upper the blade protrudes above the table, the deeper the cut that’s made within the material. In some early table saws, the blade and arbor were fixed, and therefore the table was moved up and right down to expose more or less of the blade. The angle of cut is controlled by adjusting the angle of the blade. Some earlier saws angled the table to regulate the cut angle. Check out the review to read more about the best Table Saws of 2021.
Tips & Tricks for beginners
1. Use feather boards for an additional set of hands
When it’s tough to stay at board aligned with the fence, pull out a feather board for smooth, straight cuts. Feather boards have a series of wooden “fingers” that hold wood tightly against the saw fence. The fingers are slightly flexible and cut at an angle, in order that they allow you to push the wood through while maintaining a firm, even pressure. They also dig in and hold the wood in situ if it starts to sit back. They seem to be a great “third hand” once you want the right rip. Just push the feather board firmly against the piece of wood 1 to three in. before the saw blade, then clamp it tightly to the saw table.
2. Found out simple outfeed support
Trying to tear a previous couple of feet of an extended board without a helper or support at the opposite end is virtually impossible. Upscale roller support can solve the matter. But if you do not have one, found out short-lived outfeed support with clamps, two 2x4s and plywood. The 2x4s clamped to the saw table keep the plywood perfectly in line with the table surface. The boards you’re cutting will slide onto the support without getting stuck.
To construct a short-lived outfeed table, clamp two 8-ft.-long 2x4s to the saw table, cantilevering them approximately 5 ft. over the outfeed side. Then screw or clamp 1/4-in. plywood to the underside of the 2x4s.
Keep in mind that this works only with contractor-size and bigger table saws with heavy steel or iron tables. It could cause lighter bench-top saws to tip or bend.
3. Add a fence to the miter gauge for smoother crosscuts
The narrow width of most miter gauges offers poor support when you’re crosscutting, especially when you’re cutting at an angle. For better support, screw a wood fence to the miter gauge. (Most gauges have holes for this purpose.)
Use a straight 1×3 or 1×4, and make it high enough in order that the blade won’t cut it completely off. Then it is easy to feature a removable stop block for creating multiple cuts or change the angle and make miter cuts with an equivalent fence. However, always double-check the accuracy of the miter gauge with a square or protractor before making any cuts.
4. Clamp on an extended fence for longboards
Keeping an extended, heavy board or a full sheet of plywood tight against a brief fence may be a challenge, especially once you work alone. It’s only too easy for the wood to stray from the fence, ruining the cut or causing the blade to bind and leave burn marks along the sting. To avoid these problems, clamp an extended level or an extended, straight board to the fence. The longer the fence, the better it’s to stay the wood firmly against it.
5. Use a half fence for sophisticated grain
Wood with knots or wavy grain and wood that has been dried unevenly will often warp badly as you rip it. If the halves bend outward, one will push against the fence and cause burn marks, a kickback, or an uneven cut.
If this begins to happen, clamp a smooth, straight length of 3/4-in. wood against the fence, ending at the middle of the saw blade. This half fence gives the trapped piece (the section between the blade and therefore the fence) room to bend without pushing back against the blade. Keep several push sticks at hand so you’ll work around the clamps and complete the cut smoothly.
6. Save your fingers with push sticks
If you discover your hand within a foot of the table saw blade, it is time to succeed in a push stick. This essential table saw accessory is notched to hook solidly over the top of the board. You’ll then push it on through and hold it down firmly at an equivalent time. It allows you to finish a wonderfully straight cut while keeping your hands well faraway from the blade.
It’s best to stay a minimum of these two styles handy. Use the long, narrow push stick for smaller, lighter boards and for narrower cuts. And use the broad, flat push stick for wider, heavier boards once you got to apply more downward pressure.
7. Cut narrow strips with a sliding jig
To make a series of identical narrow strips for shelf edging, you do not have to remove the blade guard or move the fence for each cut. Just attach a brief strip of wood slightly thinner than the width of the rip to move the top of a 4-ft. 1×6. Then hold the board against it and push the jig through. The jig keeps your hands well faraway from the blade, and you’ll rip as many pieces as you would like without ever moving the fence.
To make the jig, attach a 5-in.-long strip of wood, 1/16 in. narrower than the width of the specified rip, to the top of a 1×6 as shown. Basically, you’re creating a horizontal push stick. Add a handle near the top of the jig to offer yourself better control as you run the jig through the saw.
8. Trim crooked boards with a plywood straightedge
The prettiest pieces of wood at the lumberyard aren’t always straight and smooth. But cleaning up those rough edges isn’t difficult. To straighten out a crooked board (with minimum waste), simply screw it solidly to a straight strip of plywood. Then run the board through the saw with the plywood against the fence. Your board will now have a straight, smooth side to carry against the fence when you’re ripping it to width.
Plywood straightedges also are handy for ripping tapers. Simply mark the specified taper on your board, align it with the sting of the plywood, screw it in situ, and cut.